Thursday, January 25, 2007

Vivid Viognier


Being a Rhone-head, a few years back I tried a Guigal Condrieu at dinner with the wife. Now I drink almost anything, esp. when I pay restaurant prices but the wife is, shall we say, particular. Two sips in and her nose was turned up, "tastes like jet fuel and burnt oranges." She has a terrific palate BTW. Anyway, I powered on, as is my ilk, but never found the wine approachable. We probably left half a bottle undrunk, a tragedy. The moral of the story is that it took me some time thereafter to actually buy another bottle of viognier. I took me even longer to figure out how to pronounce the name of this varietal. Nowadays, there are viognier lovers everywhere, and there is even a website devoted to the grape, enjoyingviognier.com. Some folks really do have too much time on their hands, as compared to us devoted wine bloggers.

At any rate, after I read about Greg Brewer's immediate success with Brewer-Clifton and its pinots and chards, which I've had and enjoyed for their elegance and defined fruit, I saw that he was the winemaker at Melville Vineyards and Winery so I got on its mailing list. I bought a bunch of varietals from the 2001, 2002 and 2003 vintages from the winery but tossed more recent mailers b/c, well I have too much wine and nowhere to stash it. At any rate, somehow I ended up with some bottles of the 2003 Melville Estate Viognier, Santa Barbara County (really the Santa Rita Hills, before it was a VA) which have been gathering dust and taking up space for a while. The only solution, drink the damn stuff. So I popped the cork on a bottle last night. One blogger on this site notes that the viognier that he generally comes across is insipid; that's not the word I would use to describe the Melville, which at 16.1% alcohol (yep, that's not a typo--over sixteen percent!) is a little bit hot. Curiously, the Melville website under the "past releases" tab does not even list a 2003 Viognier. Maybe they want to disown the wine and forget that they made it. At any rate I'm going to take a picture of the label and post it tomorrow so you can all see that I am not blind nor am I losing my mind.

Tasting Notes: Honey suckle and jasmine on the nose, apricots, kiwi and lychee fruit dominate mid-palate, syrupy, tongue-coating, a rather cloying, burnt orange finish. Well made and structured though it could have a bit more acidity to balance out the residual sweetness. OK by the half glass but definitely not a wine to drink in quantity. Perhaps it needs some spicy asian food to rejigger the flavors.

Rating: Good

Cheers, Barrld

19 comments:

Sonadora said...

Ouch, that's a huge alcohol content, especially for a white wine. I don't think I've ever seen one that high in a white. I wonder how much extra tax they had to pay to sell that one?

Barrld said...

It's almost eye watering in kind of a bad way, like the smell of rubbing alcohol. Not sure how he ever got the wine to taste good enough to bottle with that amount of alcohol.

Barrld said...

To tomsyl22--Try the Kestrel or Whitman viognier from Washington State--good values at under $20 per bottle, more blanaced and lower in alcohol by 2 or 3 percent.

James said...

Best offers like '15% off any order' found at My Wines Direct by using coupon code "Perks15"......!

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